Learning valuable lessons the long way on Mt. Moran - The Skillet

Mid - April, the time of year when high alpine objective start to open up. The Skillet on Mount Moran in Teton National Park has been on my list for sometime and this year seemed like the time when my experience and conditions had lined up. Plans were in place and we had our weather window, however four days before departing for Jackson a wind storm slammed into the Teton’s and shot up the danger of the avalanche conditions, the trip was put on pause. However the day before the trip conditions had seemingly healed, with few chances to make the trip up and a seemingly possible weather window the trip was back on. The next morning I hit the road from Denver to meet my partners in Jackson. Two hours into the drive while cresting the final hill in Laramie I hear a violent bang and ensuring black smoke tailing my car. The worst that could be assumed shorty came true … a totalled engine. On the loud tow truck drive to Laramie I contemplated if the world was trying to tell me to go home and throw in the towel. Never the less, my partner for the trip Simon took a detour to Laramie and scooped me on route to Jackson, saving me from a long night in Laramie’s finest motel and a tow truck ride back to Denver.

Arriving in Jackson at 930PM after managing to turn a 7 hour drive into a 12 hour travel day, we rapidly packed our bags for the next day and laid out our sleeping bags in the back of Simons van with lights out at 10:00. With a restless few hours of sleep the alarms rang shortly after finally getting a few minutes of sleep at 11:45PM. With skis on our backs, wheels were rolling by midnight as we hustled the 10KM’s down the closed road on bikes.

After four hours navigating the forest and lakes under the night sky we punched into the alpine at last. Unfortunately our celebration was short lived when we were confronted with avalanche debris containing boulders up to the size of small cars, only lit by our headlamps, the avalanche field gave off an uncomfortable eerie feeling. Never the less we pushed on with cold temperatures and hours until the sun would reach the face. We were quickly met with icy slopes and a rock hard boot pack, signs of good climbing conditions and safety but bad ski conditions. As we continued to ascend the lower flanks of the skillet we started to uncover the wind facets that we feared, we went back and forth between rock hard conditions and wallowing in 2 foot deep sugary wind facets. With each new isolated wind facet section we became more and more weary of the conditions ahead of us. Upon reaching the the top of the skillet below the start of the handle, we made the tough decision to call off our goal. We sat and enjoyed the sunrise from the middle of the line before picking our way down the lower half of the line and enjoyed a nice morning ski back across the lake. Upon arriving back at the cars at 10:00 AM and discussing our decisions, it became clear among the group that we had been spooked by how the debris looked in the dark and when unable to assess the line to a deeper extent our decisions were very isolated. The general consensus was that due to being ahead of schedule and after skiing down the lower half of the line, it would have been possible to have completed the line. However we were all in agreement that there is never a wrong decision in turning around early and the skillet will always be there for us to ski. This was one of the days that I have learned more about my decision making in the backcountry than maybe any other day, and that is something I will always greatly appreciate.

Adventuring in Grand Teton National Park

With Fall (and winter) weather quickly approaching I saw a quick window to sneak down to the Tetons with my friend Ti. Grand Teton National Park is a mere 3.5 hours from my new base in Bozeman, MT. We hit the road after class with a goal to arrive in the Tetons before dark, after 2.5 hours of driving we were nearing the destination when we happened upon a closed road leaving us with no choice but a 4 hour detour. We arrived at the park at 12:30AM, quickly pitched our tent and hit the sack.

An intermittent break of storm clouds on our first morning gave us a few minutes to cook up some breakfast.

An intermittent break of storm clouds on our first morning gave us a few minutes to cook up some breakfast.

Scaling some magnificent rock on our approach to the summit of Teewinot Mountain.

Scaling some magnificent rock on our approach to the summit of Teewinot Mountain.

Grand Teton looking very grand.

Grand Teton looking very grand.

Ti climbing off the summit of Teewinot Mountain as we saw another wave of dark clouds on the horizon.

Ti climbing off the summit of Teewinot Mountain as we saw another wave of dark clouds on the horizon.

The views from the top of Teewinot Mountain were staggering.

The views from the top of Teewinot Mountain were staggering.

One last look before heading back to the car.

One last look before heading back to the car.

Our campsite for the 2nd night, exhausted after a much longer than expected day in the mountains.

Our campsite for the 2nd night, exhausted after a much longer than expected day in the mountains.

I always dream of sun rays like this, we felt so lucky to watch it happen over the Tetons, a few steps from our campsite.

I always dream of sun rays like this, we felt so lucky to watch it happen over the Tetons, a few steps from our campsite.

Climbing Teewinot Mountain turned out to be a much bigger endeavour that originally anticipated, the planned 6 mile round trip quickly turned into 15 miles after making a simple error at the trailhead. It was evident our brains were foggy from a short nights sleep. We persisted and made it the summit despite thunderstorms in the morning hours we were rewarded with a afternoon and evening of beautiful sun and warm weather. We found a new camp spot for the evening, pitched our tent, and watched the sun go down behind the Tetons, beer in hand. Not long after we found the “comfort” of our sleeping bags, knowing we had an alpine start the next day.

5:00AM and back on the trail

5:00AM and back on the trail

The first hit of sun on our skin was warmly welcomed.

The first hit of sun on our skin was warmly welcomed.

Racing the sun up Garnet Canyon.

Racing the sun up Garnet Canyon.

Our first clear view of our objective for the day: Middle Teton.

Our first clear view of our objective for the day: Middle Teton.

On the trail by 5AM and the day started with a bang! One of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever witnessed and perfect weather. We made good time up to the meadows were many campers were still asleep. As we started to make our way through the boulder fields the sun began to creep over the mountains. If you know me, you know this is when I have a massive smile on my face: perfect weather, lighting, and fantastic rock structures surrounding me. We forged on and slowly made our way to the saddle.

I couldn’t get enough of this beautiful sun coming up into the valley.

I couldn’t get enough of this beautiful sun coming up into the valley.

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Ti making his way through the many boulders.

Ti making his way through the many boulders.

Our final view before calling it a day and turning around early.

Our final view before calling it a day and turning around early.

It was at around 10,500 feet that Ti was noticeably starting to feel the altitude today and the fatigue of the previous days. Despite that we pushed to the saddle at 11,400ft. It was then that I also started feeling the altitude myself, but we both new that only the SW Couloir remained in tackling the Middle Teton (13,000ft). After taking a short rest on the shoulder and looking up the the SW Couloir all our hopes were immediately drained from our bodies. We knew it would take at least another two hours to summit. Due to lack of sleep, fatigue, and time restraints we felt it was best to turn around and return to the car, knowing we had another 4.5 hour drive ahead of us back home. Despite the overwhelming disappointment of failing the main goal of our trip, we couldn’t help but feel so fortunate to be having an amazing time with a perfect weather window in a new-to-us National Park. We will surely be back soon Grand Teton National Park.

 

A short film I created from our trip: